France targets Shein and Temu with fast fashion fines
France has started imposing penalties on the extreme end of fast fashion to try to curb a surge in sales of cheap clothing sold by e-commerce sites including Shein and Temu.
France is imposing fines on fast fashion retailers like Shein and Temu to tackle the environmental impact of excessive clothing production. These penalties, introduced by a law passed in June, can range from €0.25 for items such as boxer shorts or socks to €12 for a coat, capped at 50% of the product's pre-tax sales price. The fines come at a challenging time for Shein, as its stock market debut in Hong Kong saw its valuation drop following the end of duty-free access for cheap e-commerce parcels in the EU and US.
Neither Shein nor Temu has commented on the new fees. A Shein spokesperson in France previously stated that these penalties would increase customer costs by raising prices. China's commerce ministry has criticized the French law as discriminatory and a potential violation of World Trade Organization (WTO) principles.
The penalties, set to rise further from 2030, are calculated based on the number of products sold, their prices, and their repairability. As of March 31, Shein's product catalog included over 2 million items, with 4,700 new apparel styles added daily. European retailers like Zara and H&M, with their more limited product range, are unlikely to be affected by these penalties.
European Union regulations mandate that member states establish an Extended Producer Responsibility body to collect fees from textile producers to fund the collection, sorting, and recycling of discarded clothes. The French organization responsible for this task will collect the new fines from the importer or manufacturer of fast fashion that is responsible for the penalty.
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