Q&A: What's innovative about canned food?

John Coupland, a professor of food science at Penn State, has authored a book titled "Containing Nature: The Ongoing Invention of Canned Food." His work delves into the history of canned food, tracing its evolution from late 18th-century France to the modern food system. In a Q&A session, Coupland shared insights into the origins and significance of canned food.

Coupland recounted his initial interest in canned food, sparked by a visit to a local factory during his faculty interview at Penn State. He was impressed by the expertise of the workers, whose generations of experience in turning vegetables into successful businesses left a lasting impression on him. This fascination led him to explore the broader context of canning, culminating in his book.

The inventor of canning, Nicolas Appert, hailed from France and served as an escort for the king during the French Revolution. Contrary to popular belief, Appert did not receive payment from Napoleon to develop military rations. Instead, his workshop was destroyed multiple times during the Napoleonic Wars. Appert's journey into canning was marked by trial and error while selling products in his high-end Paris grocery store.

Early canning pioneers found success in serving the British military, who relied on preserved foods for extended voyages, particularly to the Arctic. Canned food enabled ships to stay at sea for longer periods, supporting military expeditions, exploration, and global trade. Coupland emphasized that necessity often drives innovation, with many advancements in food preservation stemming from the needs of the military and explorers.

Even modern innovations, like baby food packets, can trace their roots to practical problems faced by soldiers.

Food safety concerns played a crucial role in canning's history. Early canning methods lacked a scientific understanding of sterilization, leading to tragic cases of botulism. The 1920s saw a significant research effort to understand botulism and other hazards, resulting in improved standards and food safety. Despite ongoing debates over the safety of BPA in can linings, the industry has continued to innovate, developing alternatives to address new concerns.

Coupland highlighted that the canning technology, though seemingly mature, is still evolving. New research questions arise as concerns emerge, leading to further improvements. He contrasted the myth of genius inventors changing the world overnight with the reality of innovation, which typically comes from countless individuals making small, incremental improvements over time.

This perspective resonated with Coupland, who now views canned food with a newfound appreciation for the accumulated knowledge and expertise behind it.