Invasive green crabs are bad for the environment so New Englanders are starting to eat more of them

In Maine's York River, Mike Masi and his interns sorted through a pile of invasive European green crabs on a dock, eagerly searching for those that had recently molted and were softer to the touch. These crabs, known for their brown or green shells and five spines on each side of their eyes, are considered a delicacy in New England, with Masi receiving $3 per crab compared to just 8 cents for their shell-dwelling counterpart.

The green crabs, Carcinus maenas, originally arrived from Europe via ballast water in ships centuries ago, and have since multiplied into the tens of millions. They pose a significant threat to the ecosystem, outcompeting native species like Atlantic rock crabs and juvenile lobsters, destroying eelgrass beds, and undermining salt marsh banks. Their presence costs the local shellfish industry millions each year, as they prey on mussels, oysters, and soft-shell clams.

As climate change warms the ocean, green crabs thrive in various habitats and produce numerous offspring, further expanding their range. Carolyn Tepolt, an evolutionary biologist, notes the crabs' remarkable adaptability and resilience, making them one of the world's most successful invasive species.

Efforts to curb the green crab invasion have been largely grassroots, with limited impact on their population. While some restaurants and seafood businesses are now serving green crabs, there are few fishermen catching them and almost no infrastructure to process and distribute them. This lack of infrastructure, combined with insufficient data on fishery capacity, hinders efforts to manage the crab population effectively.

Advocates argue that more government support is needed in New England. Currently, only Massachusetts offers incentives, providing fishermen with an additional 40 cents per pound in addition to their regular sales. The state's program operates in 10 communities on the North Shore and outer Cape Cod, generating over $100,000 per year in funding. However, Washington state took more decisive action in 2022, declaring an emergency to address the green crab issue.