Invasive green crabs are bad for the environment, so New Englanders are starting to eat more of them

In the foggy morning of York River, Maine, Mike Masi and his interns were sorting through a pile of invasive European green crabs, on the lookout for those that have just molted and have soft shells. These crabs fetch higher prices at markets, with Masi receiving $3 per crab compared to just 8 cents for a hard-shell crab. Catching these crabs benefits the ocean's ecosystem, as they are considered a nuisance due to their destructive impact on the environment.

The green crabs, originating from Europe, arrived on the East Coast centuries ago via ship ballast waters. They outcompete Atlantic rock crabs and juvenile lobsters, damage eelgrass beds and weaken salt marsh banks. The invasive species have also significantly impacted the region's shellfish industry, costing it millions annually as they eat mussels, oysters, and soft-shell clams. The crabs thrive in New England's warming ocean waters and diverse habitats, reproduce rapidly, and have few predators.

Over the past decade, New England has struggled to mitigate the green crab invasion due to limited infrastructure, a lack of data on fishery capacity, and insufficient government support. Only Massachusetts provides incentives for crab catching, offering fishermen $100,000 per year in state funding. Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Maine have made slight changes to accommodate green crab consumption, but there is still a significant impediment to effectively processing and distributing the crabs.

Despite challenges, there is a growing appreciation for green crabs across New England. Restaurants are increasingly incorporating the crustaceans into their menus, using them in dishes such as sandwiches, pasta, and sauces. The flavor is often described as rich and luscious, compared favorably to other crab varieties. As advocates continue to push for more substantial government support, the future of green crab management in the region remains uncertain.