Plates are the new canvas, chefs the new artists

As plates become the canvas for culinary creativity, chefs are transforming into artists in their own right. The latest evidence of this trend comes from chefs across India who are taking plating to new heights, pairing each dish with carefully chosen vessels that enhance the dining experience.

At Tresind Mumbai, head chef Sarfaraz Ahmed boasts over 10,000 pieces of plates, cutlery and other tableware from around the world. Every time the menu changes, so too do the plates and cutlery, ensuring that each bite is an immersive experience. "Everything on the plate tells a story," says Ahmed. "Will the guest be comfortable eating it is the guiding principle."

In Delhi, chef Lick It Up at Raga by Gaggan presents a popsicle painted on the plate, meant to be licked clean. Chef Rydo Anton believes the first bite should evoke curiosity, recognition, confusion or nostalgia. Meanwhile, Indian Accent serves its palate cleanser in a toy pressure cooker and shorba in clay pottery cups, while ghee roast mutton and soya boti have been served in customised miniature copper pans.

At Farmlore in Bengaluru, chef Johnson Ebenezer serves bites on a hand-glazed ceramic map of Karnataka, cut into three interlocking pieces. Inspired by his childhood Sundays listening to sermons, Ebenezer's "Miracle Course" tells a story with each course. Every element on the plate is edible, ensuring the focus remains on the food rather than the aesthetics.

Food expert Rashmi Uday Singh attributes the transformation in plating to several factors, including increased disposable incomes, travel, international restaurant awards, molecular gastronomy and social media. Celebrity chefs like Nikhil Nagpal at ITC Maurya and Himanshu Saini at Tresind Studio have pushed the boundaries of plating, presenting dishes in unique and unconventional ways.

Rahul Sharma, chef at Nila in Bengaluru, serves Ladakhi dishes on rocks, recalling the landscape of the region. Each dish is presented with great care, ensuring that the food and the story behind it are in perfect harmony. "The real design happens at the pass with the team," says Sharma. "We plate it, step back, move things and plate it again."

At Masque in Mumbai, executive chef Varun Totlani emphasizes the importance of ease of eating, ensuring that the plate's design does not hinder the dining experience. A consistent rulebook exists across kitchens, with chefs emphasizing the importance of fluff-free plating and clean, considered presentations. The ultimate goal is to create a beautiful and enjoyable dining experience that tells a story through every course.