‘말차 열풍’ 부는데, 농부·어린 차나무가 없다…일본 차밭 80% 줄 듯

The demand for matcha, a powdered green tea used to make the health drink known as matcha lattes, is growing globally. However, the number of matcha-producing fields in Japan is rapidly decreasing. According to a report from the Nihon Keizai Shimbun on May 24th, the area of matcha fields in major Japanese production regions dropped from 41,500 hectares in 2020 to 25,400 hectares in 2025, a decline of around 16,100 hectares.

If this trend continues, Japan could lose up to 80% of its matcha fields, leaving only 5,000 hectares by 2050. In the Kansai region, a major matcha-producing area, abandoned matcha trees remain in steep, unmanageable terrains. Farmers working the challenging mountainous fields report that they can't even hear the noise from delivery vehicles during harvesting.

The number of members in the local matcha cooperative has dropped from 110 in the late 1990s to just 23 today. One of the significant reasons for the decrease in matcha fields is the aging of farmers. In Japan, the number of agricultural workers is around 980,000, with 80% of them being 60 years old or older. The situation is similar for matcha farmers.

Due to long-term demand decrease and lack of successors, the farmers are rapidly aging. The average age of matcha trees is 30 years, and the quality declines after that, reducing the harvestability. On the other hand, matcha latte and other tea-based beverages are gaining popularity as coffee alternatives, especially in the United States, Europe, and Southeast Asia.

Last year, Japanese tea exports, including matcha, surpassed 100,000 tons for the first time in 70 years. In response to the situation, the Japanese government is providing subsidies to matcha farmers and promoting the development of new varieties. The Japanese government encourages matcha farmers to switch from the common green tea variety 'sencha' to the matcha source 'tencha'.

At the same time, efforts are being made to cultivate young farmers and mechanize production, along with developing advanced agricultural technology such as drones. In Gōhōshima prefecture, for example, large flat fields are common, allowing for efficient production using heavy machinery. One tea company has recently invested ¥600 million to build a factory capable of producing about 200 tons of matcha annually.

The company's manager, Tōmihira, stated in an interview that with the high demand for matcha worldwide, the investment can be easily recovered.