Dressed for power: Giorgia Meloni and the language of fashion

Fashion is a powerful tool, serving as a silent language that conveys messages without any actual words. Italy's first female prime minister, Giorgia Meloni, understands this language all too well. Fashion critic Michela Bonafoni explains how Meloni's clothing style has evolved, reflecting her journey from an outsider to an establishment figure in Italian politics.

Initially, she embraced dark suits and chunky boots, embodying power dressing, a style that emerged in the 1970s and became influential in the 1980s as women entered professional and managerial roles. This authoritative look, according to Bonafoni, conveyed a message of "I'm here in this kind of government and that's all there is to it."

However, Meloni's wardrobe has softened over time, transitioning to wide-legged silhouettes and pastel shades. This shift coincides with her increased establishment in European politics and her support for Ukraine. Despite this, luxury brands have not supported her, a fact that hasn't prevented Meloni from using fashion to appeal to a broader public. When she noticed her government actions were unpopular among Italians, she began wearing pastel colors, sending a message of kindness and understanding.

Meloni's fashion choices also reflect her nationalism, often sporting Made in Italy designers. At the Salone del Mobile, she opted for jeans and a casual beige blazer, signaling her approachability while maintaining her position. This style exudes confidence and aligns with the more relaxed style of female politicians in the US.

Yet, consistency in appearance can also be a form of power dressing. Angela Merkel, for instance, maintained a remarkably consistent wardrobe, consisting of trousers and a three-button jacket in various colors, which became her signature look. This simplicity served as a uniform, emphasizing Merkel's character and political decisions rather than her fashion.

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum also uses clothing to express solidarity with Mexico's Indigenous communities, frequently wearing garments crafted by local artisans. Meanwhile, Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy and UK Labour Party Prime Minister Andy Burnham have demonstrated how appearance can send powerful political messages.

Zelenskyy's tactical clothing conveys an anti-elitist sentiment, while Burnham's smart-casual style emphasizes his relatability to the public. As for Meloni, Bonafoni predicts another style change as she faces challenges from far-right politician Roberto Vannacci.