France's traditional smoked sausage under threat – but is Brussels really to blame?
Political parties across Brittany are up in arms over the French government's failure to defend andouille de Guémené, a traditional sausage suspected of posing a cancer risk.
Andouille de Guémené, a traditional Breton smoked pork sausage, is at risk due to EU rules on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which can be carcinogenic. The sausage, served with crêpes and sautéed onions, has a devoted following. However, its distinctive flavor relies on traditional smoking methods over beechwood, resulting in higher PAH content.
Producers fear that authorities could shut down their business over the EU's limit of 12 micrograms for certain PAHs. Despite using protective sleeves to capture 80% of PAHs, some producers are forced to test the entire sausage, doubling the PAH levels. While EU rules allow member states to request exemptions, France has never done so.
Local councillors and gastronomic associations argue that the French government has interpreted the rules too strictly and refuses to apply for an exemption. EU countries like Ireland, Croatia, and Spain have already secured exemptions for traditional smoked meats. If France fails to request an exemption, the future of andouille de Guémené may depend on the government's willingness to do so.
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