Le départ d’Anthony Vaccarello de Saint Laurent, nouveau défi pour la relance de Kering

Anthony Vaccarello is departing Saint Laurent after a decade at the helm, Kering has announced. His spectacular September runway presentation, featuring lavish gilded ensembles, marked the climax of his time with the iconic Parisian fashion house. Over his tenure, sales nearly tripled before experiencing a downturn in recent years.

Vaccarello's departure presents a chance for creative rejuvenation, but also poses a significant risk for Kering as it strives for revival under new CEO Luca De Meo. Kering plans to unveil new creative leadership for the brand "soon." Vaccarello joined Saint Laurent in 2016, amplifying the label's allure and allure with striking eveningwear designs showcased at cinematic runway shows overlooking the Eiffel Tower.

He initially adhered to the monochromatic, bold aesthetic established by his predecessor Hedi Slimane, gradually incorporating more color, volume, lightness, and transparency to establish the house's distinctive identity. Vaccarello's Saint Laurent distinguished itself through its unwavering commitment to high-fashion drama rooted in the sensual portrayal of Parisian nightlife.

He devised a clear strategy for honoring the brand's heritage by exploring a particular facet of Yves Saint Laurent's legacy each season, selecting a concise, coherent design palette that could be reimagined for contemporary audiences. Ultra-long coats, broad-shouldered bomber jackets, and parachute-like ruffled gowns coexisted with form-fitting leggings, sheer mini dresses, statement jewelry, and sharp-toed stilettos.

In 2023, Vaccarello bolstered the brand's enduring connection to cinema by establishing Saint Laurent Productions, a subsidiary that has produced acclaimed films directed by figures such as Jacques Audiard, Jim Jarmusch, Pedro Almodóvar, and David Cronenberg. Born in Brussels, Belgium to Italian parents, Vaccarello initially pursued law studies before transferring to sculpture at La Cambre.

After graduating, he secured the Hyères Festival fashion award in 2006. His fashion journey began with Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi, where he specialized in fur design. He launched his own label in 2009, earning the Andam fashion prize two years later. In 2014, he was appointed to oversee Versace's Versus line. Vaccarello temporarily suspended his eponymous label when he commenced his role at Saint Laurent, where he was appointed by then-CEO Francesca Bellettini (currently CEO of Gucci).

During his time at the brand, sales surged nearly threefold, peaking at €3.3 billion. Although Vaccarello refrained from featuring bags or sneakers on his runway, his evocative interpretation of Parisian style ignited a multi-year surge in sales for the brand's everyday essentials, including envelope handbags, loafers, and bomber jackets.

However, starting in 2023, as consumer interest in luxury waned, the business began to falter. Saint Laurent adapted by tailoring its offerings to affluent consumers seeking distinctive, high-end styles, stocking its stores with luxurious silk trenchcoats, towering stilettos, and substantial costume earrings. Revenue declined to €2.6 billion in 2025 before rebounding in the first half of this year.

Vaccarello's succession offers Saint Laurent an opportunity to reestablish its dominance beyond occasionwear and eveningwear. While Yves Saint Laurent's legacy encompassed extravagant fashion imagery and opulent couture, he also pioneered the concept of making fashion accessible for everyday women's lives. Under revival initiatives led by current CEO Cédric Charbit, the brand aims to bolster its daywear, menswear, and premium leather goods offerings.

The challenge lies in introducing novelty and diversity without compromising the hard-fought brand reputation as the esteemed French house synonymous with upscale nightlife attire.