Dior finds its voice as Saint Laurent goes for gold at Paris Fashion Week

The final round of the spring/summer 2027 fashion season is underway in Paris, the city that has long been the spiritual and metaphorical heart of all things sartorial. Among the many highlights, Maison Margiela presented a collection that took a more commercial turn compared to previous shows. The collection featured a juxtaposition of hard and soft elements, with 1960s-style brocades appearing as column skirts tied with Margiela's signature cotton ribbon and tailoring arriving in concertina-like construction.

Dior, on the other hand, opted for a lighter approach with Jonathan Anderson drawing inspiration from air itself. The collection featured lace, silk mousseline, and organza, with tailoring softened into fluid, almost weightless forms. Transparency played a significant role, creating a sense of constant movement. Saint Laurent presented a final, extraordinary collection under Anthony Vaccarello, who is leaving the brand after a decade.

The collection was steeped in the house's history and charged with the atmosphere of a finale. Metallic trenches, cocktail dresses, gilt brocades, and metal-thread lace caught the light, while mousseline scarves in hues of absinthe, amber, and cognac added color. The Eiffel Tower glittered as the show began and ended, underscoring the sense of occasion.

Meanwhile, Matieres Fecales staged a deeply political show at Place de la Republique, with 99 looks on 99 models of color. The outfit was a commentary on the divide between the wealthiest one percent and the rest of society, with the latter being portrayed as the heroes of the story.