#SHOWBIZ: Saint Laurent designer Vaccarello hints at change

Paris: Saint Laurent's chief designer of the past decade, Anthony Vaccarello, suggested a potential shift in leadership at the French brand during a glamorous gold-themed fashion show in Paris on Tuesday. The Belgian presented his Spring-Summer 2027 collection in front of the iconic Eiffel Tower, dropping cryptic hints about change in the accompanying show notes.

He wrote, "A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains." Vaccarello, who joined Saint Laurent in 2016 following Hedi Slimane's tenure, has cultivated a unique aesthetic through his 10-year tenure, incorporating sensuality, sheer fabrics, powerful shoulders, tuxedos, and metallic elements.

The collection showcased gold as the signature color, defining the designer's style during the Fall/Winter 2027 season. The Saint Laurent brand reached a record-breaking three billion euros ($3.4 billion) in sales in 2022 before encountering a slowdown, mirroring industry-wide trends. Speculation about a leadership transition at the company, which is part of the luxury conglomerate Kering, has been rampant in the fashion community, but Kering has remained silent on the matter.

Many fashion house owners and executives are exploring ways to revitalize their businesses in the challenging luxury market. At Balenciaga, designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is being eyed by new Kering CEO Luca de Meo after struggling to maintain sales levels set by Demna Gvasalia. Similarly, at Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali is facing pressure for lack of profitability.

Tuesday marked the second day of Paris Women's Fashion Week, where Jonathan Anderson of Christian Dior presented his latest collection in a star-studded show at the historic Tuileries Gardens. Singers Rihanna, Rosalia, and actress Jennifer Lawrence attended the event, marveling at Anderson's romantic, folk-inspired designs that contrasted with the label's traditional aesthetics.