Fendi, Marni and Jil Sander designers break free from house codes

At Milan's fashion event, three prominent designers from Italy's venerable houses have broken free from the strictures of their brand legacies. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander, and Meryll Rogge at Marni have each embraced their own creative vision for their brand's next seasonal collections.

For Marni, Rogge is championing the brand's reputation for appealing to multiple generations. The Spring Summer 2027 collection featured youthful ensembles like pedal pushers and mini-shifts, alongside more mature options such as short-haired goat fur coats and plaid dresses with keyhole details. Rogge aims to honor Marni's quirks while appealing to a diverse range of customers.

Chiuri's second collection for Fendi focused on the freedom and spirit of dance, with models' reflections on the runway creating a sense of connection between attendees. The show incorporated elements of gorpcore, or urban-inspired mountain fashion, alongside the brand's signature fluidity and layered textures. Chiuri harkened back to her roots as an accessories designer, emphasizing the importance of bare skin and innovative layering.

Bellotti's third collection for Jil Sander saw the minimalist uniform softened with inventive tailoring. Elongated silhouettes, pleats, and built-in capes allowed for a balance of structure and lightness in the designs. The color scheme leaned toward neutrals, allowing the architectural elements of the garments to take center stage. Bellotti emphasized the importance of handcrafted details, such as a cutaway saddle flap on a riding coat, in creating a unique connection between the brand and its audience.