Fendi, Marni and Jil Sander designers break free from house codes

MILAN (AP) — Fashion's game of musical chairs is slowing down in Milan as new creative directors of Italy's most storied brands are loosening up the codes at Fendi, Marni and Jil Sander. Maria Grazia Chiuri, Simone Bellotti, and Meryll Rogge are each embracing their own interpretations of the brand's heritage while creating something fresh and new.

Chiuri, returning to Fendi after stints at Valentino and Dior, is enveloping the runway with a soundtrack of Italian dance classics, aiming to recreate the freedom and frenzy of the dance floor. Her second collection for Fendi starts with undergarments, making bare skin integral to the look and leaning into the brand's fluidity and layered textures.

Bellotti, the creative director for Jil Sander, has softened the minimalist uniform with inventive tailoring. His elongated silhouettes, three-quarter-length jackets, argyle knitwear, and pleats and capes allow air to flow through the garments and around the body. The color palette of mostly neutrals keeps the focus on the architecture of the looks.

Rogge, the creative director for Marni, is embracing intergenerational appeal with a collection that hewed more toward the younger crowd with pedal pushers and mini-shifts. However, the collection also featured short-haired goat fur coats that could appeal to any age. Rogge believes Marni's sweet spot is intergenerational appeal, and the collection hit that target with its modern and easy-to-wear looks, including a dress with a keyhole detail and shoes as an unlikely inspiration.