How fake Naxos potatoes and modern ambitions are threatening the future of a world-renowned crop
Historic Naxos potatoes hold protected status, but young people on the island no longer want to be farmers.
Naxos, the largest Greek island in the Cyclades, has been cultivating its renowned potato variety since the late 18th century. This important crop, sold across Europe, contributes significantly to the island's economy. Twice a year, farmers sow and harvest the potatoes, with the second harvest occurring in September. To get a closer look at the challenges facing this cherished crop, we interviewed Stelios Vathrakokoilis, the largest potato grower on Naxos and President of the Galanado Agricultural Cooperative.
Vathrakokoilis explained that Naxos potatoes possess unique qualities due to the island's abundant sunshine, proximity to the sea, and the use of cow manure for fertilization. The island's soil, lacking calcium, contributes to the potatoes' distinctive flavor.
Unfortunately, the future of the Naxos potato is under threat. Smaller family sizes and younger generations pursuing different careers have reduced the number of potato farmers to just 300 on the island, down from 300 in the 1980s, when production reached 15,000 tonnes. Today, production has dwindled to a mere 5,000 tonnes. The issue of fake Naxos potatoes has also emerged, with some unscrupulous individuals importing and selling inferior potatoes as Naxos, even originating from countries like Egypt.
This deceptive practice is prevalent in street markets, where 99% of the potatoes sold are not from Naxos.
Water and labor shortages pose additional challenges to Naxos potato farming. The island's growing population and tourist influx have strained water resources, forcing farmers to purchase expensive desalinated water. Moreover, finding skilled labor willing to work under challenging conditions is becoming increasingly difficult. Traditional farming methods have not evolved to address these issues, and the costs of fuel, fertilizers, and wages are unsustainable.
Stelios Vathrakokoilis warned that if current trends continue, there could be no Greek potato farmers left within five to ten years, a problem that extends to other European countries facing similar agricultural crises.
The local farmers union, the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Naxos, is actively working to preserve the island's potato heritage and support farmers. With a century-long history, the union aims to promote Naxos potatoes as a symbol of the island's history, economy, and agricultural prowess. The 17th Potato Festival, held in September, celebrated the potato's significance and showcased local recipes, music, and dance.
However, as Stelios Vathrakokoilis pointed out, the future of Naxos potatoes and its farmers hinges on adopting innovative farming methods and addressing the challenges posed by water scarcity, labor shortages, and economic constraints.
Written by urgent.news from Euronews's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.
