The Kurator’s New York Fashion Week SS27 roundup
Six days, seventy-odd shows. New York's Spring/Summer 2027 season ran from September 10 to 15, though the grown-ups, as usual, refused to wait for the Council of Fashion Designers of America to open the official calendar and jumped the queue on September 9. What emerged, once the noise cleared, was less a trend than a temperature check: heritage houses turning the magnifying glass on their own…
New York's Spring/Summer 2027 fashion week unfolded from September 10-15, with designers jumping the gun on the official Council of Fashion Designers of America calendar. Heritage houses led the way, delving into their own archives instead of competing trends. European brands began embracing New York's runway prominence. The season also featured a New York-born expatriate returning to examine American identity firsthand.
Coach took center stage with Stuart Vevers' 85th birthday show, which felt more like an autopsy. The house's signature elements - trenches, leather jackets, tuxedos, bias-cut dresses, Western boots - were reimagined with visible seams and linings. Soft nappa leather and sun-bleached jersey gave the tailoring a worn-in appearance, rather than a fresh purchase.
Accessories featured metallic finishes and confetti-like bags and shoes salvaged from a still-partying event. Vevers used the turnlock tote, borrowing its hardware from a Bonnie Cashin design from 1970, alongside an inside-out Brooklyn bag.
Meanwhile, Tory Burch demonstrated the opposite approach to restraint. The show took place inside Isamu Noguchi's Sunken Garden at the Financial District, creating a Zen-like atmosphere amidst towering skyscrapers. The collection began with an acid green sweater adorned with densely embroidered patterns, transitioning to military-inspired military dressing and boldly colored sportswear.
Unexpected fabric combinations, such as terrycloth for chenille and silk for heavy wool, added depth to the designs. Amanda Seyfried, Emily Ratajkowski, and Alexa Chung attended the post-punk-scored show, offering an unusual backdrop for a fashion collection that seamlessly blended disparate elements.
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