Root House by gēn, Penang: Chef Johnson Wong’s plan to evolve Malaysian-Chinese cuisine by going back to its roots

Root House by gēn, a new restaurant in Penang, Malaysia, opened in the restored 1926 Heritage Hotel. Chef Johnson Wong, recipient of the Michelin Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2024 Young Chef Award, created the establishment to explore Malaysian-Chinese cuisine through the lens of Penang's dialect groups. Wong, a native of Johor, sought inspiration for Root House following a post-pandemic trip to China, where he was impressed by the level of cooking techniques.

Root House aims to present Chinese cuisine in a modern and ingredient-forward manner while preserving cultural traditions. The restaurant's menu showcases dishes such as steamed fish using chicken fat instead of soy sauce, and reimagined beverages like lei cha with wosun. Root House has received polarized feedback, but Wong emphasizes the importance of diners engaging in discussions about the dishes, as the true measure of success is the customer's satisfaction.