The new ‘izakaya’ economy
Japan's neighborhood drinking spots are being squeezed by rising costs, changing habits and a growing preference for eating at home.
On a Wednesday evening, Marco, an izakaya in the heart of Tokyo, buzzes with activity. The L-shaped counter and tables slowly fill as the night progresses, hosting a mix of salarymen relaxing after work, couples sharing a meal, and regulars who don’t require a menu. Izakayas like Marco are prevalent throughout the city, nestled on almost every commercial street, hidden beneath train tracks, or perched above street level in compact buildings.
These establishments blend the ambiance of a pub and a neighborhood restaurant, serving as both a social hub and a dining destination.
Named after the pig protagonist from Hayao Miyazaki’s 1992 film “Porco Rosso,” Marco's menu primarily features yakiton — skewers of grilled pork and offal — paired with beer and Hoppy, a beer-flavored, near-alcohol-free mixer deeply rooted in Tokyo's working-class drinking culture. The aroma of sizzling pork fills the air, accompanied by the chatter of patrons and the clinking of glasses. There's an undeniable sense of vitality in the room, suggesting that the izakaya industry remains robust.
Despite the bustling scene, the izakaya economy appears to be thriving. With your current subscription plan, you have the opportunity to share your thoughts on this story. However, please remember to create a display name in your subscriber account’s Profile section before commenting. Keep in mind that your current plan does not permit commenting. For further information, please refer to our Frequently Asked Questions.
Written by urgent.news from Japan Times's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.
