Sumitaba Japanese Kitchen reopens in Taman Desa, showcasing ‘live unagi’ and grilled items

KUALA LUMPUR - After a three-year closure, Sumitaba Japanese Restaurant, initially situated in Bukit Jalil, has re-opened its doors in Taman Desa. The brothers, Matthew and Samuel Chua, have decided to showcase live eels for their unagi preparation, believing these yield superior results compared to frozen alternatives. Located on the first floor of Wisma JAG, the restaurant boasts a floor-to-ceiling glass window, providing a panoramic view of the Taman Desa area, even under a hazy sky.

The unagi is prepared employing Nagoya-style techniques, characterized by grilling the live eel over a charcoal fire instead of steaming it. The eel, available in portions ranging from whole (RM180) to half (RM98), can be enjoyed in two distinct styles. The Hitsumabushi (RM98) is a half eel serving, while the unajyu (RM180) provides a more comprehensive experience.

The glass eels, aged between six to twelve months, are grilled immediately over sumi (charcoal), unlike the Kanto-style which involves grilling, steaming, and a final grilling to create a softer, fluffier texture.

An important aspect of enjoying Nagoya-style unagi is the four-step process: initially, relishing the eel and rice separately, appreciating the smoky flavor of the grilled eel without any sauce. The second bowl combines the eel with rice and condiments, such as spring onions, wasabi, nori, and sansho pepper, which balance the richness of the eel. The third bowl incorporates the condiments into a clear soup, creating an ochazuke. Lastly, savor the unagi in whichever manner one prefers.

The menu also includes Hamachi Kama or grilled yellowtail collar, which is cooked so well that the fish flakes off effortlessly. The restaurant offers Negima Skewer, brushed with tare sauce, and Momo Skewer, which is sprinkled with salt. Sumi (charcoal) grilled items are their specialty, including various proteins like fish, squid, chicken, and beef, as well as Wagyu. Despite their name, sumi-grilled dishes are their specialty, including a variety of meats like different fishes, squid, chicken, and beef, including Wagyu.

The dining area is expansive, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering a clear view of Taman Desa. Popular dishes include Negima Skewer (RM8), featuring leeks and chicken, brushed with their house-made tare, which imparts a delicate flavor. Other menu items include sashimi, sushi, and maki, all made with fresh fish flown in from Japan.

Rice lovers can choose from teishoku sets or various donburi (rice bowls) topped with sashimi or grilled items. Sumitaba Japanese Kitchen is situated on the first floor of Wisma JAG, Unit 1.02, Level 1, Jalan Desa Utama, Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur. The restaurant is open from 11:30am to 3pm (Monday to Saturday), 5:30pm to 10pm (Sunday to Friday), and 5:30pm to 9:30pm (Saturday).

For more information, you can contact them at 019-9079750 or follow their Instagram handle @sumitaba.kl. This review is based on an independent evaluation where the writer paid for the meal.