Shein Shares Plunge Up to 17% on Gray Market Ahead of Hong Kong Debut

Hong Kong-based fast-fashion giant Shein successfully raised US$1.7 billion through its initial public offering (IPO) on Monday, valuing the company at approximately $26.3 billion, according to the company's statement. The Chinese-founded retailer, known for its ultra-low prices and rapidly produced clothes, chose Hong Kong as the location for its IPO after facing regulatory challenges in the US and London. Shein offered 280 million shares at HK$48.56 each, below the maximum offer price of HK$49.50 set by the company.

The pandemic-era popularity of Shein, which surged due to its social media appeal to young customers, has waned as the company grapples with slowing growth and mounting regulatory pressures in its largest markets, the US and Europe. The current valuation of $26.3 billion represents a significant drop from the $98.2 billion valuation during Shein's private fundraising rounds in 2022.

Shein has come under scrutiny for its environmental footprint and allegations of human rights violations. The company's executive chairman, Donald Tang, has pledged zero tolerance for forced labor. With its shares set to begin trading in Hong Kong on Tuesday, Shein plans to invest the raised funds in upgrading its technological capabilities and expanding its global presence.

Funds raised through the IPO will be used by Shein to enhance its technological infrastructure and expand its international footprint. The company reported a full-year net profit of US$2.06 billion in the previous year but experienced a US$99 million quarterly loss in the most recent quarter as the US scrapped an import duty exemption for small packages. Similarly, the European Union imposed a duty of €3 (US$3.50) per item for packages valued under €150.

Lorraine Tan, Morningstar's Asia director of equity research, noted that the decline in Shein's market perception is a result of slower revenue growth, geopolitical challenges, and increased competition. While sales in Asia help offset the fall in US revenue, the outlook for the company is now expected to be a period of single-digit revenue growth. This maturing outlook is likely to dampen investor excitement. Geopolitical risks, such as tariffs and other challenges, remain a concern for Shein.