Are the clothes on your back slowly harming you?

Concerns about the chemicals that surround our everyday lives have grown in recent months, leading to the rise of the "low-tox" movement. Consumers are now scrutinising everything from skincare products to household cleaning items and, increasingly, the garments they wear. This heightened scrutiny came to a head earlier this year when the US launched an investigation into whether Lululemon's products contained PFAS – synthetic chemicals known for their resistance to breaking down.

Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton launched a probe to determine if Lululemon's clothing contained these chemicals, leading to widespread discussions about the potential health risks associated with wearing these fabrics.

PFAS, or perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances, are a group of synthetic chemicals with around 12,000 individual compounds. Used since the 1940s, they have been applied to make materials water, oil, heat, and stain-resistant. However, they are not easily broken down in the environment or the human body, leading to accumulation.

In November 2023, the International Agency for Research on Cancer classified PFOA as carcinogenic to humans and PFOS as possibly carcinogenic, marking a significant shift in how these chemicals are viewed globally. Many other PFAS compounds, however, lack sufficient data to determine their safety.

The use of PFAS in textiles has been primarily for making fabrics water-repellent, stain-resistant, wrinkle-free, or moisture-wicking. While these properties are beneficial, they come with a cost. The European Environment Agency has highlighted textiles as one of the largest sources of PFAS pollution in Europe, noting that safer alternatives exist for most clothing categories.

The main concern regarding these chemicals is dermal absorption, or absorption through the skin. While certain PFAS compounds can pass through human skin, it would be an exaggeration to claim that wearing leggings, for instance, could poison someone. The real issue is dosage – the amount of exposure someone actually receives from wearing treated clothing is still largely unknown.

Experts stress that the amount of exposure from clothing alone is generally considered to be low. Dr. Dema Mahdi Mohamed, a general practitioner, advises that while it is sensible to be aware of PFAS, there is no need to become overly anxious about everyday exposure. When evaluating health headlines, it is crucial to differentiate between complex scientific research and simplified narratives.

Reliable sources include recognised public health organisations, medical professionals, and regulatory agencies, which evaluate all available evidence. The Lululemon investigation, while significant, underscores the broader issue of misinterpreted claims by brands that market themselves as low-tox. These brands often face scrutiny due to their marketing strategies, even when they have phased out PFAS from their products.

This situation highlights the complexities of the "low-tox" conversation in fashion, where individual product certifications do not necessarily guarantee the overall safety of a brand's entire product line.