From Northern style chicken ‘khao soi’ to Isaan grilled pork neck, Taan Thai in Cheras offers casual yet elevated Thai cuisine

KUALA LUMPUR — When visiting Bangkok, my Thai friends would often ask "Taan a rai dee krub?" - a polite way of saying "What should we eat?" or "What tastes good?". This simple phrase sparked lively debates about the best food options, as everyone seemed to have an opinion. In Thailand, finding good food is easy - there are so many choices available. However, outside of Thailand, Thai cuisine can sometimes be watered down to suit local tastes, leading to tamer spicy dishes and substitutes for authentic ingredients.

Fortunately, Taan Thai in Cheras offers a refreshing and elevated Thai dining experience. Nestled in the basement food level of Sunway Velocity Mall, the restaurant combines convenience with a more sophisticated approach to Thai cuisine. With an extensive menu, our server recommended some dishes while we also ventured into trying new ones.

The menu features a blend of traditional favorites and unique dishes not commonly found elsewhere. For instance, the Thai milk tea (cha nom yen) showcases a creative twist by separating the milk and Thai tea. The coffee blossom tea (kafae "blossom") is another interesting option, reminiscent of cascara, a tea made from dried coffee cherry husks and pulp. This earthy-flavored tea is an intriguing alternative to more fruit-forward cascara.

For the main course, I opted for the Northern-style chicken curry noodle ('khao soi gai'). This aromatic dish boasts a creamy coconut milk base and red curry paste, complemented by tender chicken drumsticks and crispy deep-fried egg noodles. The combination of flavors and textures is a delightful contrast, with pickled mustard greens, raw shallots, and lime providing a refreshing tang to cut through the richness of the broth.

Another standout dish is the shrimp roe fried rice with tiger prawns ('khao pad man goong'). This savoury, umami-packed rice dish adds an extra hit of flavor from the dried shrimp, making it a satisfying choice for those seeking a hearty meal.

The Isaan-style grilled pork neck ('kor moo yang') is a testament to the restaurant's commitment to authentic Thai fare. Despite being grilled to perfection, the pork neck remains tender and flavorful, reminiscent of the roadside vendors found in small Thai streets. Compared to other Thai dining experiences in malls, Taan Thai provides a balance of comfort and refined casual dining, making it an ideal spot for both locals and visitors alike.