Aizu-Wakamatsu’s Tsurugajō Castle: Where the Samurai Era Ended

Tsurugajō Castle, a gem of Aizu-Wakamatsu, stands out with its distinctive red roof tiles that beautifully contrast against its white plaster walls. Built as a fortification in the Middle Ages, it underwent significant expansion under Toyotomi Hideyoshi's rule in the sixteenth century. The castle was later renamed Tsurugajō, with the town around it becoming Wakamatsu.

Originally, the keep boasted black walls and a black roof, its name, referencing white cranes (tsuru), having no link to its initial appearance. The red roof was introduced in 1648, a decision influenced by practical concerns related to the region's snowy winters. This modification, both aesthetically pleasing and functional, contributed significantly to the castle's prominence in the Tōhoku region.

In 1874, the castle structures were dismantled under orders from the Meiji government. However, the spirit of Tsurugajō was not lost; it was reconstructed in 1965 as a five-level, six-story ferroconcrete structure, funded by local citizens eager to see it restored. The roof was redone in 2011, returning to the original red tiles.

The 22.8-hectare castle park offers ample opportunities for recreation and sightseeing. The main keep now houses a local history museum, detailing the castle's rich past and the stories of notable locals, such as bacteriological researcher Noguchi Hideyo. Visitors can enjoy panoramic views from the castle's uppermost floor and explore sights like Kurogane Gate, Hoshii Turret, and the south barracks, all meticulously reconstructed using traditional wood joinery techniques based on Edo-period architectural drawings and photos from the 1870s.

The site also features reproductions of military equipment and digital displays explaining the castle's history. Nearby, the Rinkaku teahouse, established by Sen no Rikyū's grandson, offers visitors a chance to enjoy matcha green tea amidst a serene Japanese garden. The castle's history is deeply entwined with the Battle of Aizu, the final major engagement in the civil war between shōgun loyalists and imperial forces following the transfer of power in 1868.

Despite the castle's destruction, the park stands as a testament to the resilience of the samurai era, offering visitors a glimpse into the proud and loyal warrior culture of Aizu.