Dry, glowing or breaking out? How to adapt your skincare routine to your menstrual cycle

Skincare routines often focus on consistency, but a trend called cycle syncing suggests adapting products to hormonal changes during the menstrual cycle. This approach argues that skincare should be adjusted according to four stages of the cycle, shaped by fluctuations in hormones such as estrogen, progesterone, and testosterone. These hormones affect the skin, leading to variations in its appearance and behavior throughout the month.

Menstruation, the first stage, typically lasts three to seven days and is characterized by low levels of estrogen and progesterone. Skin may become drier, duller, or more sensitive during this time. To address these changes, cycle-syncing advocates for emphasizing hydration and barrier support. Rich moisturizers and serums containing ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and fatty acids can help restore the skin barrier.

Overnight masks with soothing ingredients like aloe vera, allantoin, and Centella asiatica (also known as cica) can replenish moisture and restore softness.

The follicular phase follows menstruation and lasts from the end of bleeding until ovulation, approximately six to nine days. Estrogen levels rise during this phase, promoting collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production. Skin may appear more hydrated, elastic, and even-toned, making it more tolerant of active skincare ingredients.

Introducing gentle exfoliation with mild alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic or lactic acid can help remove dead surface cells and reveal brighter-looking skin. Vitamin C serums may also be incorporated for brightening, collagen production support, and antioxidant protection.

Ovulation occurs around the middle of the menstrual cycle, lasting three to four days. Estrogen peaks, while testosterone also rises sharply. This hormonal combination may cause increased sebum production, leading to oilier skin. Skin often appears bright and smooth before progesterone begins to rise. To prevent clogged pores and potential breakouts, a lightweight gel moisturizer or oil-free lotion may be more comfortable than a heavy cream.

Thorough cleansing at night can remove excess oil, while an occasional clay mask can absorb surface oil and keep pores clear.

The luteal phase, lasting about 14 days on average, is when the skin may be most challenging. Falling estrogen levels and a significant rise in progesterone can sharply increase sebum production. This phase is associated with painful hormonal acne, particularly around the chin and jawline. To balance soothing irritation with ingredients that control excess oil, cycle-syncing recommends using ingredients such as salicylic acid, azelaic acid, and retinoids.

Salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA) can be found in cleansers, while niacinamide may help with oil control and redness. Spot treatments can be applied directly to individual blemishes, but aggressive scrubbing or drying the area may worsen irritation.

In summary, cycle-syncing skincare involves becoming more aware of hormonal changes throughout the menstrual cycle and adjusting a skincare routine accordingly. It does not mean replacing all products but rather becoming more attuned to the body's needs at each stage.