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Isabella Bird's 'Unbeaten Tracks in Japan': An idyllic 'samurai house' in Nikko (Pt. 8)

Upon reaching Nikko on June 13, 1878, Isabella Bird and her party passed through the settlement of Hatsuishi and arrived at the celebrated Shinkyo Bri

On June 13, 1878, Isabella Bird and her party arrived at the famous Shinkyo Bridge in Nikko. Beyond this point, they would cross the Daiya River and enter the sacred precincts of Toshogu Shrine, dedicated to the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. The travelers made their way to a small inn, Kanaya Cottage Inn, which had begun accepting foreign guests a few years prior.

Zenichiro Kanaya, the proprietor, was a musician and had purchased an old samurai residence to accommodate foreign visitors. Bird stayed at the inn for 12 days, appreciating its traditional Japanese architecture, beautiful surroundings, and the absence of other guests. The house featured polished wooden stairs, verandas, and rooms adorned with shoji screens and intricate paper.

The proprietor and his family were known for their hospitality towards foreigners. Bird was particularly fond of Zenichiro's sister, who greeted her at the door and assisted her with her boots.

Written by urgent.news from The Mainichi's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.

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