Before Papa’s, there was masoor pulao: Chef Hussain Shahzad on the dish that shaped him

Chef Hussain Shahzad's journey with masoor pulao began in his childhood home in Chennai, where he would eat it once a week on non-meat days. His mother's recipe formed the foundation of the dish, which he eventually adapted for the Bombay Canteen's monsoon menu in 2023. The masoor pulao consists of smoked dal at the base, layered rice, and a caramelised onion masala on top.

Hussain's love for cooking started as a necessity after his parents' divorce, leading him to culinary school and a career spanning Eleven Madison Park in New York and The Bombay Canteen, O Pedro, Veronica's, and Papa’s. The masoor pulao remains a cherished part of his repertoire, a dish that connects him to his roots and fuels his passion for Indian cuisine.