Saoji mutton: Why Nagpur’s fiery cuisine is so spicy and oily

Saoji mutton is celebrated for its fiery, spicy and oily flavor that comes from a unique blend of 32 spices called Saoji masala. This masala, which includes peppercorns, star anise, coriander, cardamom and coconut, is roasted and then slow-cooked in either jute or linseed oil, creating a thick, rich and aromatic gravy. The slow roasting of the spices is crucial, as it allows them to release their distinct oils, resulting in an intense flavor.

Saoji mutton, made from goat meat, is prepared with onions, ginger and garlic and simmered in the Saoji masala for hours, yielding a dark, reddish-black gravy with a generous layer of oil on top. Despite its heat, Saoji cuisine is believed to help regulate body temperature in the hot climate of Nagpur. The cuisine originated with the Halba Koshti community, who migrated from Madhya Pradesh to Nagpur in the late 19th century.

Initially created as an affordable meal option for mill workers and laborers, Saoji masala and cuisine have become a cornerstone of Nagpur's culinary identity. Today, Saoji mutton is often served with traditional breads like bhakri, roti or rice, and the community is innovating by incorporating new ingredients like chicken, paneer and jackfruit.