Among the sacred hills of Colombia’s Guainía
I had been struck by photographs of the Cerros de Mavicure rising above the forest and the Inírida River in eastern Colombia. The dark rock, exposed against an almost unbroken expanse of green, seemed unlike anywhere else I had visited in the Amazon. Last month, ahead of Mongabay Latam’s PUMA FEST in Bogotá, I finally […]
The Cerros de Mavicure, Mono, and Pajarito hills, located in Colombia's Guainía region, rise dramatically above the dense Amazonian forest and the Inírida River. These dark, rocky outcrops are part of the Guiana Shield, a geological formation unique to the northern part of South America. The hills are sacred to the Indigenous peoples of the region, featuring in creation stories, animal folklore, family traditions, and the social codes that govern interactions between people and nature.
Daniela Quintero Díaz, Mongabay Latam's investigations editor, and Oilber Díaz, a Puinave member, accompanied the reporter to the site ahead of the Mongabay Latam's PUMA FEST in Bogotá. The three hills, Mavicure, Mono, and Pajarito, sit within two Indigenous territories, El Venado and El Remanso. Each community shares its name with the territory it belongs to.
Dreyk, a Cubeo community member, guided the group up Mavicure. The ascent involved navigating steep granite terrain, with forest growth confined to narrow spaces and patches of soil. From the higher vantage point, the vastness of the landscape became apparent. Mavicure's peaks loomed above the forest canopy, while the Inírida River flowed around them, forming a natural boundary.
As the sun set, the significance of the hills became even more apparent. From the viewpoint, the scale of the region was striking. The hills stood out against the green canopy, while the river curved around them, forming a natural frame. Upon descending after dark, the trail came alive with the sounds of frogs and geckos, adding to the mystical atmosphere of the sacred hills.
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