What our histories owe to the food that we eat
Given that we celebrate Independence Day in August, it becomes fashionable to villainise the British
The food we eat has played a significant role in shaping our histories. Benjamin Lewis Rice, born in Bengaluru in 1837, was an administrator-turned antiquarian/historian who wrote about Mysore, a land he loved. Rice's monumental 1897 Mysore Gazetteer detailed a massive agricultural shift in Southern Karnataka between 1871 and 1873, where wet rice cultivation was replaced by ragi and oilseeds.
This change was due to administrative reasons, as the control of irrigation channels and tanks was transferred to the Public Works Department. Rice's records emphasize the importance of ragi as a staple food, highlighting its unique characteristics and nutritional value.
In addition to Rice's records, ancient Sanskrit and Kannada texts provide valuable insights into regional gastronomy. The 12th-century text Manasollasa by Kalyani Chalukya King Someshvara III mentions payasam as the only sweet, showcasing the culinary preferences of the time. Another text, Lokopakara by King Chavundaraya from 1025 A.D., provides a detailed account of culinary science, including ingredient substitutions, seasoning methods, cookware selection, and various dishes.
These texts reveal that traditional meals were diverse, abundant, and enjoyed until satiety, often accompanied by the satisfying post-meal belch. The historical account of food in India emphasizes the importance of regional diversity, cultural heritage, and the deep connection between food and history.
Written by urgent.news from Hindustan Times's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.
