Beyond Rolex and Patek Philippe: The independent watch brands worth knowing
For seasoned collectors, some of the most exciting watches today come from tiny manufactures producing just a handful of pieces each year.
Independent watch brands often produce fewer than 12 watches per year, with prices and waiting lists reaching six figures. Collectors who already own popular timepieces may be drawn to these lesser-known factories. Seven such brands worth noting include Akrivia, Armin Strom, and Arnold & Son.
Akrivia, founded by Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva, gained attention with its modern and openworked designs, including a three-hand Chronometre Contemporain. The brand produces only a few dozen watches annually, with high demand and long waits. Rexhepi's work is often regarded as some of the finest in the industry, despite criticisms of price and conservative designs.
Swiss watchmaker Armin Strom embraces "transparent mechanics," showcasing moving parts on the dial. Founded by Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the company has produced technically sophisticated movements and innovative complications, such as the Mirrored Force Resonance and Constant Force Tourbillon 11. The brand's English heritage is evident in its symmetrical dials and historically accurate movements.
Lastly, Arnold & Son traces its lineage back to 18th-century English watchmaker John Arnold. The brand was revived in the early 1990s in Switzerland and now combines Japanese ownership with Swiss production. Arnold & Son is known for its technically sophisticated movements and a distinct symmetrical dial layout. Notable inventions include the Constant Force Tourbillon 11, inspired by Arnold's pocket chronometers, as well as the Luna Magna.
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