Why Hermes wants to be taken seriously as a watchmaker

Hermes Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet has outlined the company's efforts to elevate its status within the watchmaking world. While the brand has long been respected for its design in Asia, it has not always been regarded as a peer to established fine watchmakers. However, this perception is shifting.

At the 2026 Watches and Wonders event in Geneva, Hermes unveiled a collection centered around the theme of Mysterious Mechanisms. The collection featured three innovative pieces, each showcasing different methods of revealing the watch's movement without compromising its aesthetic appeal. These included the Hermes H08 Squelette, which displays the new H1978 S automatic calibre through an architectural lattice; the Slim d’Hermes Squelette Lune, with an openworked dial and an ultra-thin H1953 calibre; and the Arceau Samarcande, which houses the H1927 self-winding minute repeater beneath a handcrafted Saint-Louis crystal dial.

These timepieces were made possible through a collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a Swiss movement specialist. In April, Hermes increased its stake in Vaucher from 25 to 40 percent, further solidifying their partnership. Vaucher supplies movements to other prestigious watchmakers, including Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Richard Mille.

Hermes' recent focus on watchmaking is part of a long-term strategy, announced by Dordet at the Geneva event. The company has been expanding its Le Noirmont manufacture in Switzerland, which produces watch cases and dials. This expansion underscores Hermes' commitment to watchmaking, a field it entered in 1978.

When asked about the differences between Asian, European, and North American consumers, Dordet emphasized that while generalizations are not advisable, there is a shared desire for authenticity among Asian watch buyers. They seek genuine products rooted in the brand and its universe, making transparency crucial in their decision-making process. The Asian market values informed consumers who scrutinize brands and their offerings.