AI cuts perfume development time by up to 30%, industry experts say

Artificial Intelligence is revolutionizing the perfume industry, reducing development time by up to 30%, according to experts. Traditional perfumes have embraced new technology despite insisting that human expertise cannot be replaced. Estee Lauder, a US cosmetics giant, opened an innovation center in Paris that leverages AI to blend human know-how with advanced technology, aiding its billion-dollar brands such as Jo Malone, Kilian Paris, Le Labo, and Tom Ford Beauty.

Lucas Nanini, the group's vice president for fragrance innovation, uses AI to address "paradoxes," like creating a rich yet fine oil. AI helps perfumers identify oils with desired properties and automate regulatory tasks, such as verifying ingredient legality across countries. AI can also suggest molecules to replace animal-derived ingredients, like civet, which has been phased out due to animal rights concerns.

Givaudan and Robertet, major players in the industry, have invested heavily in AI tools that use decades of internally collected data to find new molecules and suggest complementary ingredients. While some experts remain skeptical, insisting on their control over the scent development process, they acknowledge AI's role in stimulating creativity and finding historically interesting but unconventional combinations.