BOOK EXCERPT: Remembering Sydda Essop, who turned recipes into a social history of the Karoo
Through recipes and intimate stories, Sydda Essop documented the people, hospitality and cultural crossings that shape the Karoo’s distinctive food heritage.
Sydda Essop, a remarkable figure from Beaufort West in the Central Karoo, has left a lasting impact on the region's culinary heritage. Through her book, Karoo Kitchen, which was first published in 2012, Sydda documented the people, hospitality, and cultural crossings that shaped the Karoo's distinctive food heritage. The book is a perfect symphony of interesting food and immersive storytelling, capturing the essence of what makes Karoo cuisine unique.
Born to Amina and Solly Essop, Sydda grew up in a house that hosted many well-known politicians. Her father, Solly, was not only a retailer but also a maker of the locally famous cooldrink, Sonsap, and a committed anti-apartheid activist. Growing up, Sydda often travelled with her father, witnessing firsthand the struggles of farmworkers and hearing stories of their lives. This upbringing ignited her interest in understanding how people lived and what they ate.
Sydda pursued art at the Michaelis School of Fine Art at the University of Cape Town. She became involved in helping women and children, particularly those whose husbands had been arrested during protest marches. Her passion for people continued as she worked in the supermarket she co-owned with her sister, where she observed the limited food choices available to people on low incomes. This experience inspired Sydda to delve deeper into Karoo cuisine.
In 2007, Sydda sold her house in Cape Town and embarked on a journey through the Karoo, armed with a digital recorder and the guidance of her mentor, Cecyl Esau. She sought to preserve the stories and recipes of the region, knowing that these were crucial to documenting the lives of Karoo people for future generations. Sydda's book, Karoo Kitchen, is a fusion of traditional recipes and innovative meals, incorporating influences from Malay, Trekboer, Xhosa, and other cultures that have shaped the Karoo over time.
Through her work, Sydda Essop has become a respected figure in Karoo history. Her book, Karoo Kitchen, has established a lasting legacy, providing a window into the region's rich and diverse food heritage.
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