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Look Closer: Ethel Dougan’s <em>Mittens</em>

A watercolor, part of the WPA’s American Index of Design collection, brings a Civil War soldier’s handwear back to life.

Look Closer: Ethel Dougan’s <em>Mittens</em>

In 1940, Ethel Dougan created a watercolor depicting a pair of mittens that had been knitted over 80 years earlier. These mittens were part of a collection of over 18,000 works by 1,000 financially struggling artists commissioned by the Index of American Design, a project of the Works Progress Administration's Federal Art Project. The Index aimed to document historical American arts and crafts while providing inspiration for modern designers.

The mittens had originally been crafted by the fiancé of Private Franklin Martin Spaulding, an 18-year-old soldier who had enlisted in the 6th Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry Regiment in August 1862. Spaulding had seen active service through that winter, just like his handmade mittens. A black-and-white photograph accompanying Dougan's drawing shows only a gray pile of moth-eaten wool, a far cry from the vibrant colors and intricate details captured in her watercolor.

Today, Dougan's work is housed in the National Gallery of Art's collection alongside the rest of the Index. Her painting breathes new life into the nearly worn and faded mittens, showcasing their surprisingly spirited appearance. Made with a patriotic color scheme, embroidered stars, and rib-stitched stripes, the mittens appear to reach out to each other like children holding hands.

The artist paid meticulous attention to the seams and rows, allowing an experienced knitter to recreate the design, but even a casual observer can notice the mittens' unusual silhouette.

The mittens feature a third pouch nestled between the usual two—one for the fingers and another for the thumb. This additional pouch was designed specifically for the teenage soldier's index finger, allowing him to quickly tear off a paper cartridge, load his rifle, and pull the trigger in the frigid conditions. The Index of American Design / National Gallery of Art Mittens by Ethel Dougan, circa 1940, is a testament to the artistic talent of the era, offering a glimpse into the lives of soldiers and the craft of the time.

Written by urgent.news from The Atlantic's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.

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