Decoding Italian Beauty’s Global Playbook
At a leadership breakfast hosted by The Business of Beauty, the Italian Trade Agency and Cosmetica Italia at the Embassy of Italy in London, leaders from the Italian and British beauty industries gathered to discuss what makes Italy’s beauty ecosystem competitive.
On October 20, key players from the beauty industry gathered for a leadership breakfast during British Beauty Week, marking the UK launch of "This is Bellezza - Say Hello to Italian Beauty." The event aimed to showcase the strength of the Italian beauty ecosystem on a global stage. This is Bellezza, a movement championing Italian beauty, stems from the Italian word "bellezza," which encapsulates a unique way of living that intertwines science, craftsmanship, and creativity.
In 2025, Italian cosmetics turnover reached a record €18 billion, with €8.6 billion in exports making up 48 percent of the global market. To maintain this leading position, Italy must overcome competition from South Korean imports, as noted by Giovanni Sacchi, director of the Italian Trade Agency in London. To highlight Italy's unique offering, the panel discussion featured four industry leaders: Simone Dominici, CEO of Kiko Milano; Irene Forte, founder of Irene Forte Skincare; Gianluca Toniolo, CEO of Dolce & Gabbana Beauty; and Renato Ancorotti, founder and president of Ancorotti Cosmetics.
Dominici emphasized the importance of combining industrial technology with creativity, drawing parallels with Italy's cultural identity. The proximity of various stakeholders within 100 kilometers of Milan enables the rapid transformation of concepts into products on shelves within 12 months, he stated. Toniolo highlighted the benefit of having the entire production process in Italy, which enabled Dolce & Gabbana's growth from a fragrance-driven business to a three-axis brand generating over €1 billion in wholesale equivalent in 2025.
Ancorotti agreed on the strategic importance of geographical proximity, mentioning the creation of a "beauty valley" in Lombardy, where raw materials, production, and packaging suppliers are close together. This arrangement shortens development and manufacturing times, with the Lombardy region alone accounting for 63 percent of the sector's national turnover in 2025.
Irene Forte, founder of Irene Forte Skincare, emphasized the balance between performance and provenance in luxury skincare. Her brand, rooted in the Mediterranean lifestyle, combines efficacious products with a story that resonates with consumers. Forte's brand has achieved a 77 percent repeat purchase rate among direct-to-consumer customers.
Lastly, Toniolo noted that Italy's manufacturing strength needs to translate into consumer recognition, as many Italian brands are associated with botanicals rather than technology-led products.
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