‘Comfort in a bowl’: porridge hotter than ever as fibremaxxers get their oats
Humble breakfast staple at heart of trend stirred up by health concerns and hearty spoonfuls of nostalgia The clocks may be going back in the UK this weekend, but the biggest sign winter is coming is a steaming bowl of porridge on a breakfast table. A staple for centuries, porridge is traditionally made with oats, water and a pinch of salt or sugar. However, the humble dish is now experiencing…
As winter approaches in the UK, a comforting symbol of the season is making a resurgence in homes and restaurants alike: porridge. Traditionally a simple dish made from oats, water and a pinch of salt or sugar, porridge has experienced a renaissance driven by health-conscious consumers and a yearning for nostalgia.
At 26 Grains, a central London restaurant, one can find a five-grain porridge topped with fig and red grape jam and whipped cream, while Oatis in west London offers toppings ranging from caramelised banana and tahini to mushrooms and pesto. The founder of 26 Grains, Alex Hely-Hutchinson, describes porridge as "comfort in a bowl," appreciating its ability to provide a pause in a hectic world.
The trend has affected home cupboards, with searches for organic jumbo oats up 98% year-on-year at Ocado, and sales of White's jumbo oats up 56%. Hedié Rhodes, founder of UK's first dedicated cereals bakery Husk & Honey, notes the "personalisation aspect" of porridge as a driving force behind the trend. Her brand now sells dedicated porridge blends like cinnamon bark and cranberry.
Food innovation studio Harris and Hayes co-founder Alex Hayes compares porridge to salads and smoothies, emphasizing its versatility as a canvas for various toppings tailored to individual taste and nutritional needs. The UK's average fibre intake of 18g falls short of the NHS's recommended 30g, but oats are a source of soluble fibre beneficial for gut health and cholesterol reduction.
Porridge is gaining popularity not just in the UK but also in Scotland, where chef Clare Coghill of Café Cùil serves pinhead oats soaked overnight with seasonal toppings. Coghill believes in celebrating Scottish heritage by using coarse pinhead oats, also known as steel-cut oats, over rolled oats.
The trend extends beyond breakfast, with some restaurants offering savoury porridge options influenced by Chinese congee and Indian kitchari. While the porridge craze brings joy to many, it also comes with the downside of having to wash up the pan.
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