112-year-old miso producer seeks to rebuild after Kumamoto quake

KUMAMOTO, Japan (Kyodo) -- A 112-year-old miso producer in southwestern Japan is working to rebuild its operations following a devastating earthquake in July, which forced it to suspend production. Maruya Shoten, located in the Hinagu hot-spring district in Kumamoto Prefecture's Yatsushiro, has been crafting miso, a traditional Japanese seasoning made from fermented soybeans, since 1914. For many locals, its Hinagu Miso represents the region's culinary identity.

The company raised over 4 million yen ($25,000) through crowdfunding by the end of September, surpassing its initial goal of 3 million yen within just three days. The funds are to be used for reconstruction efforts and equipment repairs. The July 28 magnitude-7.1 earthquake caused significant damage to the miso factory, with exterior walls collapsing and the fermentation room and pressure cooker used for steaming soybeans becoming inoperable.

Blue tarps currently cover portions of the fallen walls, rendering the environment unsuitable for food sanitation standards.

Kahori Maruki, the 39-year-old wife of the fifth-generation owner, expressed the emotional toll of the earthquake, stating that the collapse of the walls allowed dust to blow freely, and the facility could not be approved by the food sanitation authority. The disruption threatened a staple ingredient that has been an integral part of the community's daily life. Hinagu Miso is sold in local supermarkets and is widely consumed in school lunches, as well as being a popular local specialty.

Although there were approximately 2 tons of undamaged miso remaining after the quake, Kahori struggled to envision a future without the product once it was depleted. However, the support of customers across Japan, who made phone calls and social media posts expressing their commitment to wait as long as it takes for the familiar taste to return, provided a much-needed morale boost.

Heartened by the widespread encouragement, Kahori vowed to rebuild despite the ongoing uncertainty. She emphasized that they cannot afford to stand still and reiterated their goal to resume production and contribute to the recovery of Hinagu through the preservation of local food traditions. Kahori expressed her hope to deliver their miso to dining tables once again as soon as possible.