They didn’t want to inherit the family business. Now, Tan Ser Seng’s 3rd generation owners are fighting for its traditions

Eighty years after Tan Ah Sai began selling herbal soup from pots balanced on a bamboo pole, the third generation of Tan Ser Seng owners are opening their first outlet in a mall. Allan Tan, 35, and his sister Vivian, 49, had no intention of taking over the family business that their grandfather founded. The siblings had previously helped out at the stall and witnessed their parents working long hours, only taking a break during Chinese New Year.

Vivian once said, “I always told myself that I had to excel in my studies to avoid taking over the business.”

However, when the time came, “there are bonds that cannot be broken.” The 80-year-old Tan Ser Seng brand, renowned for its traditionally brewed soups, is now in the hands of the family’s third generation. Allan has led the opening of their first ever mall-based restaurant, marking a departure from the original Geylang eatery. The brand has a loyal following among older generations and Chinese tourists, but the siblings aim to attract a younger local clientele as well.

Allan's responsibility is to propel the heritage brand forward while dispelling misconceptions about the famous turtle soup, which is believed to be made from wild sea turtles. In reality, only specific freshwater turtle breeds farmed according to strict standards are used for the dish. The siblings' biggest challenge is ensuring the dishes adhere to their father's exacting standards – Vivian, in charge of kitchen operations and research and development, acknowledges her father's high standards and meticulous attention to presentation and ingredient proportions.

The heritage brand traces its roots back to 1927 when founder Tan Ah Sai emigrated from China’s Chaoshan region to Singapore and started as a fishmonger before working at a corporate canteen. There, he met his wife Khar Seng and began preparing meals. Ah Sai's love for cooking and willingness to experiment led to the creation of his Teochew-style dishes, which gained popularity as his go-to caterer for neighbourhood weddings.

He began selling turtle soup with herbs as a street vendor in 1946, travelling 2km from his home to Lorong Tai Seng, where labourers craved nourishing food.