India stirs up its gastronomy with French cooking schools to feed growing appetite for fine dining

NEW DELHI, Oct 24 — India, once fiercely proud of its culinary traditions, is now embracing foreign influences, particularly French cooking schools, to fuel its growing demand for fine dining. Young chefs are increasingly drawn to the country's burgeoning high-end hospitality sector, spurred by the rise of social media and a burgeoning middle class that eats at upscale establishments.

Aabhas Jain, director of bakery and pastry training at Ecole Ducasse, a prominent French culinary school in India, notes that while there were fewer aspiring chefs a decade ago, today's students have loftier ambitions. "There are plenty of job opportunities," says Saurav Chhabra, head of Vatel Hotel and Tourism Business School's Indian campus, which has been operating in Gurugram since 2015.

Culinary and pastry courses have surged in popularity over the past decade, with foreign private schools playing a significant role in shaping India's high-end hospitality industry. France is even considering opening vocational schools in India, particularly in Puducherry, the former French colonial port in the southeast. Ecole Ducasse currently houses over 600 students, predominantly from affluent backgrounds.

Indian chefs with experience in prestigious overseas restaurants teach their specialties, including Indian, European, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, as well as bakery and pastry-making. Siddhant Marwah, a final-year student at Ecole Ducasse, sought to acquire French techniques to elevate his culinary skills. He admires the shared techniques between French and Indian cuisines, such as "braising, blanching, and slow cooking in stews."

Meanwhile, Amitabh Sukhwal, a student at Vatel, plans to pursue a master's degree in France after completing his program, intending to open his own hotel in India. The school has around 120 students, many from modest backgrounds, who are learning French to enhance their career prospects. With more gender parity in the culinary profession, Anusha Nagia, a student at Ecole Ducasse, aspires to open a restaurant and aspire to a Michelin star, possibly through fusion cuisine.