Belgium’s quest for the perfect fries turns chip shops into prime-time stars

Belgium's relentless pursuit of the perfect fry has turned chip shops into prime-time stars on the small screen. For four years running, the popular TV show "La meilleure friterie" has been on a mission to discover the ultimate fry joint in the country's French-speaking region. Host David Antoine, a fixture on Thursday nights, describes the show as a "sacred ritual" for fans.

Crowning a winner from a dozen contestants is no simple task. Antoine jokes about the occasional friction among judges, but notes that they always reach a Belgian consensus over a shared portion of fries. The show's judges, including Fabienne and Patrick De Corte, emphasize that every detail matters when it comes to the holy grail of Belgian cuisine.

Fried potatoes are a national emblem in Belgium, with around 4,600 specialized eateries known as "friteries" in French or "frituren" in Flemish. Bernard Lefevre of the National Chip Shop Union reports that this number has remained steady for years, with the market thriving. A good chip, according to Lefevre, should be cut from a Belgian Bintje potato, double-fried in beef fat, and fall within a specific thickness range.

Hill's Burger in Brussels serves up a two-millimeter-thick "size twelve" fry, with chef Massimo Sefa proudly describing the ideal fry as having a "crispy crust and creamy flesh." Sefa, who opened the joint with his brothers, considers the show a golden opportunity to boost his business. Judge Fabienne De Corte gushes over the crispiness and hand-peeling of the fries, insisting that "fries in Belgium are our gold."

The show's devoted following includes fans dressed as fry cones, chanting support for their favorite spots. While the program has faced controversies, particularly around sauces, it has firmly established itself in Belgium's media landscape, even as the country's culinary scene evolves. Lefevre insists that the show is not a museum of the past, but rather a reflection of a society that embraces change, including halal, vegetarian, and vegan fry shops.