Tradition isn't everything: Foreign nationals say cafes are most Korean places of all

In recent times, I inquired of Conrad, a British traveler on a culinary excursion, which dish he deemed most distinctly British. Unsurprisingly, his reply did not include the iconic fish and chips or a hearty English breakfast. Instead, he declared, “curry.” Delighted and curious, I asked him to elaborate. Britain certainly has its characteristic culinary staples, yet curry has usurped a prominent place in British diets.

This realization prompted me to ponder: Which food or gastronomic tradition epitomizes Korea in the present era? Upon posing this query to Conrad, he offered a similarly surprising response: “coffee and cafe culture.” Fellow tour participants concurred with his assessment. As I guide foreign tourists through Seoul's dining scene, I frequently encounter similar inquiries: “Why are there such a plethora of cafes in Korea?” and “Why do cafes remain so packed well into the afternoon?”

While I could attribute this phenomenon to Koreans’ fervent love of coffee, a closer examination of Seoul's cafe landscape reveals a deeper narrative. Streets throughout the city are adorned with cafes clustered in every nook, their luminous glow persists late into the night, and lines snake around popular establishments on weekends.

This peculiar phenomenon transcends mere caffeine addiction; it signifies something more profound about Korean society and its relationship with the humble cafe.