Are buffets back? The rise, fall and rise again of the all-you-can-eat
From Covid to GLP-1s, the all-you-can-eat buffet has suffered blow after blow. But Anna Moloney finds a breed of chefs refusing to let go.
The all-you-can-eat buffet, once a symbol of indulgence and excess, has experienced a cycle of rise, fall, and resurgence. Once a common sight in British towns such as East Ewell, where the Toby Carvery chain opened in the late 1970s, the buffet faced a grim future during the pandemic. As restaurants closed and the sharing of food was discouraged, many predicted the demise of the buffet.
Yet, despite the erosion, the buffet has persisted, albeit in altered forms. In recent years, a new breed of chefs has refused to let go, focusing on a more luxurious and exclusive buffet experience. In London, high-end buffets cater to a discerning clientele, charging upwards of £120 per head for weekend feasts. These posh buffets often feature gourmet dishes, such as lobster and oysters, and are accompanied by champagne.
While the traditional buffet has seen a decline, driven by factors such as cost, waste, and changing societal preferences, there is a glimmer of hope for its survival.
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