Paris Fashion Week: The shows that defined spring/summer 2027

Paris Fashion Week in spring/summer 2027 focused on identity rather than spectacle. Designers used their unique codes, such as couture craftsmanship, archival references, eccentric styling or practicality. Lightness was seen at Hermes and Dior, romance at Elie Saab, everyday couture at Balenciaga and individuality at Valentino and Dries Van Noten.

Schiaparelli explored practicality, Saint Laurent emphasized glamour and Matieres Fecales used the runway for social commentary. The question at the heart of the shows was what a fashion house should stand for now. At Chanel, designer Matthieu Blazy made founder Gabrielle Chanel an active character throughout the collection, which unfolded like a history of the house.

The staple tweed jacket remained essential, with variations like cropped versions, piping, crystal collars or sleeveless iterations with playful buttons. Accessories included pearl drops, layered shells and beads, and quilted chain bags. Loewe's collection combined American pragmatism with Andalusian drama, featuring backwards polos, checked blazers, basketball jerseys as chiffon slip dresses, and unexpected fabric combinations.

Hermes embraced lightness by taking inspiration from ceiling fan blades, creating swooping pleats in leather, suede and silk, and layering fabric over statement underwear. The collection closed with bouclé mini dresses and hotpants fringed with floral embroidery, symbolizing the designers' approach to taking familiar clothes and rebuilding them through unexpected elements.