Fashion goes big on flagships

In Mumbai's Kala Ghoda, Amit Aggarwal's new flagship store captivates visitors with its awe-inspiring interior rather than the garments adorning the racks. Standing at 6,000 square feet and occupying two levels, the store is nestled inside a heritage building known for its exposed girders, split levels, and irregular geometry. A 13-foot suspended pod adds to the intrigue, providing an initial glimpse into the designer's world before one encounters the actual clothing.

This flagship store marks a burgeoning trend in Indian designer fashion. Aneeth Arora, the creator of Péro, recently opened her first retail store in India after a 17-year hiatus. For Aggarwal, the flagship offers an unparalleled experience that neither online shopping nor multi-designer retail can replicate. By combining couture, occasionwear, menswear, accessories, and pret line AM.IT under one roof, the flagship serves as a platform to introduce shoppers to the designer's philosophy, culture, and the complete world behind the clothing.

Designers are increasingly making their flagship stores memorable. Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's Mubarak Baug, which opened in August inside Mumbai's Framjee Cawasjee Institute, spans an impressive 20,000 square feet. The store, a creation by the duo's art and design venture A Wonder Room, is an homage to 40 years of Indian maximalism. Inside, the visitors are greeted with architecture, art, craft, couture, and storytelling through murals, sculptures, installations, and archival textiles.

Other notable flagship designs include 11.11/eleven eleven's Delhi store, Basement, which features a brass vat filled with indigo inviting visitors to dip a piece of kora textile into its blue pool. Strategic Brand Asset Studio's Delhi flagship incorporates textile installations. Pérodise, Arora's Delhi store, boasts 1,500 square feet of covered space and an additional 2,500 square feet outdoors. She carefully selected the location, ensuring that Péro would be "happy to be" in that space.

This shift towards flagship stores is indicative of a larger physical retail movement in Indian designer fashion. Designers are prioritizing the creation of an interior space that embodies their design ideology rather than merely showcasing products, as Arora notes. Partner Vami Koticha of sP+a explains that traditional boutiques focus on presenting products, while the new flagship stores emphasize ideas and experiences.

Luxury Connect's Abhay Gupta asserts that India's luxury market is maturing, and the economics of a flagship store now extend far beyond the products sold within its walls. A flagship store has become a strategic brand asset, providing control over storytelling, discovery, service, conversion, full-price selling, cross-category purchases, client relationships, and ultimately, pricing power and brand equity.

In today's digital age, Arora emphasizes the importance of touch and feel. She believes that certain elements of fashion remain tactile, and flagship stores provide a crucial opportunity for customers to experience clothing firsthand. Aggarwal echoes this sentiment, stating that a flagship store allows shoppers to step inside the brand's world, complementing the digital introduction.