At its heart, it’s home food’: Karam Sethi on bringing Gymkhana to Dubai
In Dubai, new restaurant openings arrive with the same regularity as rush hour on Sheikh Zayed Road: constant, a little overwhelming, and largely forgotten by the time the next one pulls up behind it. The city's dining scene moves quickly, and most openings dominate the conversation for a fortnight before receding, reservations impossible to find one week and easy the next. A month after opening…
In Dubai, a new restaurant opening is as common as rush hour traffic on Sheikh Zayed Road. The city's dining scene is fast-paced, with most openings capturing the public's attention for a fortnight before fading from memory. A month after its launch in Gate Village, Gymkhana has not faded away; if anything, its popularity has grown.
The wait for a table remains significant, and the tandoori lamb chops—acclaimed as genuinely mouthwateringly good—continue to draw diners back for more. Many patrons have prior experience with Gymkhana, either through its original London location, other international branches, or simply due to its reputation. For Karam Sethi, the founder of Gymkhana, this is not a debut in a new market, but rather the latest iteration of a brand he has built into a global culinary force.
Since opening in Mayfair, London in 2013, Sethi has established Gymkhana with two Michelin stars, expanded to Doha, Riyadh, and Las Vegas, making Dubai its fifth venture. Despite the numerous locations, Sethi emphasizes that the restaurant's essence remains constant: authentic Indian cuisine, generosity, and a welcoming atmosphere.
The key difference lies in adapting the menu and ambiance to suit each city's unique culinary culture. Sethi believes that great hospitality transcends borders, resonating with diners worldwide. He acknowledges that while the dining experience might vary, the core philosophy remains unwavering: bold flavors, regional authenticity, and a sense of conviviality.
This consistency has been a driving force behind Gymkhana's success. As Sethi explains, the challenge in Dubai was to push the menu further, leveraging the city's already established appreciation for Indian food and its culinary curiosity. The result is a 137-seater restaurant featuring an ambitious menu that explores the diverse regional cuisines of India, marking Gymkhana's most ambitious undertaking yet.
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