A taste of Sabah at Restoran Ikan Bakar Semporna

For Sabahans living in peninsular Malaysia, a plate of familiar food at Restoran Ikan Bakar Semporna in Kepong can evoke memories of family meals and hometowns. Owner Fatimah Salleh, 43, has spent a decade serving authentic Sabahan dishes to customers, many of whom are Sabahans living and working far from home. The restaurant serves dishes like latok, hinava, bambangan, ambuyat and grilled fish, which bring customers a taste of the state's culinary traditions.

Fatimah reports that about 70% of the ingredients used at the restaurant are sourced from Sabah, including fish for grilled dishes. Maintaining those flavors is crucial for her, as she believes food carries the essence of its place and people, allowing Sabahans to hold onto their identity even when living away from home. Nalwazra Abdullah, a 28-year-old regular customer, grew up in peninsular Malaysia but has Sabahan family roots.

She credits Sabahan food for introducing her to dishes like latok and putu, a traditional cassava-based dish. Nalwazra has found creative ways to share these flavors with friends from the peninsula. For younger Sabahans raised elsewhere, such food can preserve a connection to their family heritage. For those already familiar with the flavors, a familiar dish can make the distance from home feel shorter.