Milan Fashion Week SS27: Fashion is trying to spark joy again

Milan Fashion Week SS27 showcased a focus on color, craft, and personality from the biggest houses in an effort to reignite consumer desire. The sentiment was clear—Milan aims to spark joy. While Marie Kondo's decluttering method emphasizes simplicity, the Italian fashion houses are adding to the mix, aiming to reignite flailing consumer interest. This approach has been successful in Matthieu Blazy's Chanel and Michael Rider's Celine, and Milan badly needs this revitalization.

At Emporio Armani's presentation, the general consensus was that everyone was eager for the arrival of new designer Dario Vitale. His appointment had sparked a short bout of joy a year ago with a daring Versace collection. Giorgio Armani's senior line in the ready-to-wear empire presented a standard sequence of monochrome and neutral looks, eventually embellished with sequins, crystals, and tassels.

Milanese houses typically exude a sense of respectability, but Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini is injecting fun and experimentation into the brand with his latest collection. By merging formal and graphic elements, Tamburini aimed to create a breezy, emotionally and literally light collection. Mini skirts, transparent trenches, tight backless tops, yellow, red, and ochre hues, and leather with a prickly pear texture were on display.

Gucci creative director Demna Gvasalia returned with a softer, austere vision for the brand, touted as a return to a more consumer-friendly approach. His presentation served as a preview of the brand's new global flagship vision, featuring grey marble, classical friezes, and low pouffes. Demna's message, however, did not display nuanced consumer culture commentary, with the emphasis on shopping.

His first two shows had a mixed reception; however, he claimed they were trial runs. Gucci's decline, since Demna's arrival, has slowed but uncertainty remains.