Lal Ded’s verses painted on Pashmina: Masood Hussain’s unique art peeks into Kashmir’s soul

In recent years, the Kashmiri pashmina shawls have become more than just textiles; they have transformed into canvases for an extraordinary art form. The verses of the mystic Lalleshwari, also known as Lal Ded, a revered figure by both Kashmiri Muslims and Hindus, now find expression through the unique medium of paintbrush applied by celebrated Kashmiri artist Masood Hussain.

Hussain, along with textile artist Mujtaba Kadri, pioneered this technique in the Valley. Their latest exhibition, 'Lal Ded - Vaakhs of Silence', showcases 20 shawls displaying the intricate designs inspired by Lal Ded's vaakhs. This exhibition is currently on display on the top floor of the luxurious Maqam, Kadri's art studio in Rajbagh, uptown Srinagar.

Hussain, in his installation art, has previously worked with watercolour, relief, mixed media, paper pulp, oil, and installation. However, learning a new style of painting on fabric was a new challenge for him. At the age of 73, this was a daunting task, but he spent a year studying Lal Ded's verses before giving them color.

Lal Ded's verses, which have been passed down through generations in the oral tradition, are an integral part of Kashmir's collective memory. Kadri, who has been in the pashmina business for 28 years, calls this art form "art for Kashmir". He believes it brings an artistic space for the Kashmiri people to engage with their heritage, free from the influence of the tourist market.

At first glance, the shawls may appear as just painted on cloth, but upon closer inspection, one can marvel at the intricacy of the designs and the elaborate work that went into every motif. It is this careful attention to detail that Hussain, known for his "transparent strokes", brings to his work.

One of Lal Ded's own vaakhs captures the essence of this exhibition: "Ko'sam baa'gas heut’ mai a’tsun/ Pa'tsi’yay man te a’tsun praa'v/ Swa roop dar’shun chu to’tuy a’tsun/ Koet chuy ga’sun pa’kun traav". This verse invites the viewer to immerse in the culture and heritage of Kashmir, as these pashmina shawls have done.