Isabella Bird's 'Unbeaten Tracks in Japan': Kinugawa's beauty and a flea-ridden inn (Pt. 11)

On June 24, 1878, Isabella Bird embarked on an exploration of the uncharted interior of Japan, traveling primarily by horseback or on foot. As they entered the Kinugawa gorge, the landscape shifted from the tranquil scenery of Nikko to a more challenging terrain. The Kinugawa river, a clear and rushing body of water, cut deeply through colored rock and crossed through a bridge with a steep curve, offering a fine view of the surrounding mountains, including Futarayama, which held ancient Shinto legends.

Bird described the breathtaking beauty of the river, noting its varying appearance as it forced its way through precipitous and wooded mountains on one side and curved into green knolls with Spanish chestnuts and maples on the other. The vegetation appeared tropical, with brilliant greens and an array of flowers, including azaleas, hydrangeas, lilies, and irises.

The hamlets along the way consisted only of farmhouses, with deep-eaved roofs covering the dwelling-house, barn, and stable. The travelers encountered pack-mares loaded with rice and sake, and men and women carrying mulberry leaves.

As they ventured further, the ravine became more beautiful, and an ascent through a dark wood of arrowy cryptomeria brought them to a village nestled in the Kinugawa valley. This village was exquisitely situated, surrounded by numerous terraced rice paddies carved into the great chasm of the Kinugawa. On June 25, the travelers arrived at Fujihara, a village with forty-six farmhouses and a yadoya, or traditional Japanese lodging.

The yadoya consisted of a kitchen, stable, and a small loft, all cramped together. The conditions within the yadoya were described as dark, damp, dirty, and draughty. The travelers found themselves surrounded by fleas, cobwebs, and the stench of decay.