Athen’s rebel quarter Exarcheia fights gentrification and state repression

Exarcheia, a historically politically and socially significant neighborhood in central Athens, is facing challenges from gentrification and state repression. For decades, the area has been a hub for grassroots organizations, anti-authoritarian and left-wing groups, as well as migrants and refugees. However, recent developments are altering the character of Exarcheia and pressuring the community that has maintained its unique identity.

The neighborhood's transformation started before the center-right New Democracy government took office in 2019. During and after Greece's economic crisis, short-term rentals like Airbnb proliferated in central Athens, attracting international investors and spurring foreign property investment. The introduction of the Golden Visa program, which grants five-year, renewable permanent residence permits to non-EU nationals, further fueled this trend.

In Exarcheia, 42.5% of property purchases in 2018 were made by foreign nationals, with Israeli nationals being the largest group.

The Greek government has since prioritized an increased police presence in Exarcheia, coupled with redevelopment projects. One significant development is the construction of Metro Line 4 at Exarcheia Square, which began in 2022. This construction has transformed the community gathering space into a fenced-off site, raising safety concerns among residents and activists due to the insufficient space between the site and surrounding buildings for safe movement.

Riot police have become a visible presence in the area due to the ongoing metro construction, which activists see as an attempt to suppress dissent. In response, the movement has employed various tactics, including cultural activities, protests, demonstrations, and blockades of the square. Restoring "normality" and state authority is increasingly framed by Greek officials, with the previous New Democracy government pledging a tougher approach to the neighborhood's self-governed and anti-authoritarian character.

Despite these changes, activists in Exarcheia reject the notion of restoring "normality" and continue to resist the transformation of their neighborhood.