British food was complex, multicultural and flavorful in the 18th century—despite what you might think

The stereotype of bland British food is well-known, and many people mock the concept of jellied eels and overcooked vegetables. However, British cuisine has always been complex, multicultural, and flavorful. This misconception stems from wartime rationing, which damaged Britain's culinary reputation. In our book "The King's Dinner," our team, including digital humanities scholar Adam Crymble and historian Sarah Fox, explored the culinary landscape of the era of George III (1760-1820) and found a surprisingly diverse array of flavors.

The royal household at Kew, where King George III and his wife Charlotte resided, consumed a variety of vegetables and fruits, including relatively recent introductions like broccoli from Italy, potatoes from America, and cucumbers from Asia, as well as traditional staples like samphire, cabbage, and artichokes.

King George III's multicultural background played a significant role in shaping Britain's culinary scene. His wife, Charlotte, hailed from Mecklenburg-Strelitz, while George was the first Hanoverian monarch born in England. The household's meals reflected a blend of German and British tastes, with an emphasis on fish and vegetables, similar to the cuisine in Germany.

By the Napoleonic Wars (1803-1815), France's cuisine was viewed as unpatriotic, but French dishes remained fashionable in Britain. The Four Nations eating house in London's Soho catered to this demand, offering German, Italian, French, and English dishes in one place. This reflected the multicultural nature of Britain and its royal family.

The increasing popularity of European flavors and ingredients in Britain also had roots in the influx of immigrants fleeing political turmoil. In 1815, the Four Nations eating house showcased this trend, serving dishes from Germany, Italy, France, and England. Around the same time, Indian-style curries began to appear in British recipes, largely due to the return of East India Company employees.

Deen Mahomet, an Indian immigrant and Prince George's shampooing surgeon in Brighton, opened the Hindostanee Coffee House in 1810, serving Indian-style food. Although it closed in 1812 due to competition from the Norris Street Café, it marked a significant step in the adoption of Indian flavors in Britain.

While curry never became a staple in the royal diet, British people may have enjoyed Indian-style pickles. Eliza Smith, a cookbook writer, included recipes for mango cucumber pickles, which were made by stuffing mangoes or cucumbers with Indian spices like turmeric, ginger, cloves, mace, and mustard in vinegar. The Prince Regent was served pullet with India pickle at least once.

By 1800, such goods were readily available from specialist dealers, with warehouses like Warehouse No. 42 advertising piccalilli in the East Indian style and Skill's Warehouse selling exotic foods like Indian pickles to several royals.

Despite food shortages in the 1800s, roast beef remained a symbol of British national identity. This perception was reinforced by war propaganda, such as James Gillray's cartoon "French Liberty, English Slavery" (1792), which depicted John Bull with a plate of roast beef while his French counterpart ate raw green onions and live snails.

Turtle, although an expensive luxury due to its long sea journey from the Caribbean, was a symbol of Britain's imperial power. Turtle soup was a frequent feature at royal banquets and in elite dining clubs throughout the 19th century. In contrast, mock turtle soup, made from a calf's head, was a more affordable alternative that gained popularity.

British cuisine was characterized by sharp, intense, tangy flavors, often enhanced with sauces like anchovy and wine sauce, pickles, and gravies. By 1760, store sauces were widely available, making it easy to add depth to dishes like roast beef.